China Chilo for high summer

Although the early August weather remains grey and dull, it is still summer and there are lots of local lettuces, tomatoes, cucumbers and other tasty things in the markets. Here is a summer recipe for “China Chilo” which comes from an 1847 cookbook.

“Mince a pound of an undressed loin of leg of mutton, with or without a portion of its fat, mix with it two or three young lettuces, shred small, a pint of young peas, a teaspoon-ful of salt, half as much pepper, four tablespoonfuls of water, from two to three ounces of good butter, and a few green onions minced.

“Keep the whole well stirred with a fork, over a clear and gentle fire until it is quite hot, then place it closely covered by the side of the stove, or on a high trevet, that it may stew as softly as possible for a couple of hours.

“One or two half-grown cucumbers, cut small by scoring the ends deeply as they are sliced, or a quarter-pint of minced mushrooms, may be added with good effect; or a dessert spoon-ful of of currie-powder and a large chopped onion. A dish of boiled rice should be sent to the table with it.”

Sharon suggests that this is a dish that draws its inspiration from Asia. In 1847, trade with China was exploding after the founding of Hong Kong seven years earlier. Readers will be familiar today with “stir fry dishes.” Plenty of vegetables are included, as is the case with Chinese stir fry, and the mention of “currie” powder further supports the theory that the recipe was brought back by some old China Hand. However, it is localised and modified to suit British tastes. The dish is cooked slowly rather than quickly stir fried. Southern Chinese people find the smell of lamb and mutton absolutely revolting and have a special word to describe the pong “sui.”

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