Thursday, May 28, 2009

Cartagena´s Rodin treasure


Murcia´s new Museum of Modern Art has just opened in Cartagena and a remarkable exhibition of the sculptures of Auguste Rodin is running throughout the summer.

Frenchman Rodin has been described as the most influential sculptor since Michelangelo and the collection of his works now on display belongs to the Museo Soumaya-Fundación Carlos Slim. Carlos Slim is a billionaire and Mexico´s richest man.

Even people who are not great art fans will probably recognize Rodin´s works, such as The Thinker, The Kiss and The Burghers of Calais when they see them. All these works are featured in the exhibition at the museum, known as MURAM, which has been open for less than a month and which can be found in the Plaza de la Merced in the centre of Cartagena.

One fan of Rodin described the exhibition as wonderful, adding: “If this exhibition was being run in Madrid, Paris or London, there would be a huge amount of interest with big crowds and long waiting times.” This is the first time that the exhibition has been seen in Europe. Rodin´s sculptures are alive with life and movement and the works of other sculptors who influenced him are also on display, including those of his lover and inspiration Camile Claudel. Rodin lived from 1840 to 1917 and was fascinated by the human body.

One of the most interesting aspects of the museum´s services is that special visits can be arranged by appointment for people who are blind or disabled. As Sharon is both, this was definitely something for her. Arriving at the museum we were greeted by art expert Marie Angeles who knows everything there is to know about Rodin and who explained wonderfully all aspects of the sculptor´s story and his works. The museum is housed partly in a new building and partly in the old Aguirre house, the former home of a wealthy local mine owner and industrialist with its richly decorated Rococo façade. The architect has done a great job and there are no problems at all for people in a wheelchair. After washing her hands Sharon was able to feel the parts of the statues that were in reach and sense for herself the energy that flows through the bronze forms

Sharon said: “I can´t believe I was able to touch famous works of art. I have been in art galleries and museums all around the world and it is the first time I have had a very knowledgeable guide who pointed things out to me that I would never have thought of. I was absolutely fascinated. I found it a great help to be able to actually touch the sculptures.

“Marie Angles told me all about The Kiss, which shows a loving couple embracing for their first and possibly only kiss. This is probably based on the story of cousins Paolo and Frencesca in Dante´s Divine comedy. They were reading the tales of King Arthur and of the love between his Queen Guinevere and Lancelot. Inspired by this, Paolo and Francesca kissed for the first time. But this was followed, of course, by tragedy.

“The Thinker is another sculpture I know about. On many occasions it is brought into complete ridicule in cartoons – where the cartoonists feature the man sitting on the toilet. But the statue is terrific, full of power and strength.

“As a disabled person in a wheelchair I was thoroughly impressed with the ease with which I was able to move around the entire museum, with lifts, wide corridors, ramps and plenty of space. Obviously, the designers deserve a big pat on the back for their consideration.

“Even if, like me, you are not a great culture vulture you shouldn´t miss this exhibition. It is so well thought out and presented. There is plenty of information in English about everything.

“Thank God I wasn´t trying to see this exhibition in a major art gallery in one of Europe´s capitals as I would have never have got near enough to anything, let alone touch. When this exhibition turns up in years to come in Madrid, Paris or London, for example, I can say: ´I went to that that years ago. I´ve already done that. So put that in your pipe and smoke it.”

La Era De Rodin, Museo Regional De Arte Moderno (MURAM), exhibition runs from 29 April to 20 September, 2009. Plaza de La Merced, 16. Telephone 968 501 607.Other Rodin sculptures are also on display at the Museo del Teatro Romano, opposite Cartagena´s restored town hall. All the captions and information, and the catalogue, feature English as well as Spanish.

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©Phillip Bruce 2009.

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