A night on the volcano

In 1975 and living in New Zealand we had to move from Auckland to Wellington to take a new job.

Like most newly-weds we were short of money and so the express train was out of the question. But, no problem, we only possessed a couple of suitcases of stuff and so decided that the bus journey would be interesting – and it was.

Towards the late afternoon we pulled in at the historic hotel on the slopes of Mount Ruapehu, a very active volcano, and the highest peak in the country standing 9 175 feet (2 797 meters) high. This is a lovely place, built in 1929, and one of the most luxurious hotels in New Zealand. We explored the beautiful hotel, which was set amidst the snow that covered the volcano. As we couldn´t, and can´t, ski, we borrowed a sledge and messed about for a bit whizzing down little slopes. Then it was time to move on and we left the Bayview Chateau Tongariro.

By now it was dark and the snow was falling heavily. The bus drove down the mountain but when we had gone a few miles along the main road it sputtered to a halt and the engine died a death. There was silence.

Sharon says: “It was as if we were the only living beings in the whole world. There was no traffic, no nearby houses with lights on. Just complete blackness and total isolation. I was just so frightened. Thank goodness that the driver had the sense to keep the interior light on in the bus which gave me a glimmer of hope. Not to mention my husband´s soothing words. Nothing fazes him. It was freezing. We were surrounded by snow and freezing cold air and there was no heating at all. Every now and then people would get off the bus for a wee and a great gush of freezing cold air would come in. We were there all night and we weren’t rescued till the following morning. I don´t remember dropping off to sleep but I suppose I must have done because morning did arrive. We were all piled into a new bus and taken the next town for a warm up and a cup of tea. Eventually, we set off again for Wellington.”

The bus had stopped close to the state highway bridge at Tangiwai which is also crossed by the railway. It was here, on Christmas Eve, 1953, that New Zealand´s worst railway accident occurred. The Wellington to Auckland Express was crossing the bridge. However, the supports had been damaged by a surge of water that rushed down the Whangaehu River after a natural dam, formed up on the volcano crater during a recent eruption, collapsed. Six carriages plunged into the raging waters and 151 of the 285 passengers on board lost their lives. Nearly all victims were traveling in Second Class, with the First Class carriages, the guard´s van and a traveling post office remaining on the land.

Today a memorial stands at the site of the disaster to remember those who died. It features the number plate of the train engine, K949.

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©Phillip Bruce 2009